A Bad Argument Of Why Buy-And-Hold Is Bad Advice

A regular reader Don sent me a post entitled Long Term Buy And Hold Is Still Bad Advice. Okay, fine, everyone and their mom has been telling me this recently. But I read it, and it was such a bad analysis that I had to rebut it here. I think Mish writes a lot of useful and thought-provoking stuff on his popular blog, but he really missed a big error here.

First, a recap of the post. Basically, a guy called “TC” has the idea of comparing S&P 500 returns vs. that of 6-month CDs. I’ll ignore the fact that this has been done many times already. But wait! He comes up with a startling conclusion. For long periods of time, the S&P 500 has actually lagged or been about equal to the returns of safe and steady 6-month CDs. (!!!) His graph:

Keeping my parents in mind, you’re probably wondering how someone did by simply investing in 6 month CDs. The answer is for any holding period of less than 25 years, a stock market investor who made regular and equal contributions has actually underperformed a CD investor! Yes, you read that right for time periods of 1 – 20 years a CD investor outperformed the stock market by 1.6 to 20.1 annual percentage points.

Additionally, if one extends the time window to 50 years (clearly “long term”) CDs again have outperformed the stock market by 0.3 annual percentage points. Even when one extends out the time period to the full 59+ years (the start of the S&P 500 index); the stock market has outperformed short-term CDs by a mere 0.2 annual percentage points – not much of an equity premium.

The sky is falling! Oh wait, there’s a little fine print.

TC is ignoring dividends

Let’s bold that. The analysis and data above completely ignores the dividend return of the S&P 500. This is like buying an investment property and ignoring the rent payments coming in. What? There are checks coming in every month from the tenants? Nah, let’s not cash those.

Let’s take a look at the historical dividend yield of the S&P 500, courtesy of Bespoke Investments:

For the periods compared above, the a true owner of the S&P 500 has earned 2-6% annually from dividends alone, with a long-term average of 3-4%. Now, if you add another 3-4% to the analysis above, you see again the long-term equity premium. Instead of 8% vs. 8%, it’d be more like 12% vs. 8%. That’s an enormous difference.

(I also wonder where TC got his/her data for historical 6-month CD rates. Are these averages, since every bank offers vastly different rates, and doesn’t report them to a central bureau? How does one get the average 6-month CD rate across the country in 1959? Usually studies like this use 6-month US Treasury Bill rates instead, as the data is reliable and widely-accepted.)

Massive Conflict of Interest?
Another argument given as to why buy-and-hold is bad is because there is a conflict of interest between investment advisors and their clients, as they have a “vested interest in keeping clients 100% invested 100% of the time, even if they know it is wrong.”

Actually, brokers get paid the more you trade than anything else. They earn money based on total assets, but a huge chunk is from commissions. This means convincing you to buy stocks when they’re hot (tech stocks)…. and then sell them (cash!)… and then buy others (mortgage-backed securites)…. and then sell them (cash!)… and then buy new ones. Like right now, they’ll happily sell you gold or some non-scary bond funds!

True buy-and-hold means very little trading. At Vanguard, I buy-and-hold(-and rebalance) for a total cost of about 0.20% of assets annually. That’s $20 a year per $10,000 invested. Guess what the average expense ratio of a money market fund is? According to Lipper Inc., it was 0.60% at the end of 2007. The Vanguard Prime Money Market fund (VMMXX) has an expense ratio of 0.28%. The S&P 500 fund (VFINX) charges 0.18%. Even at Vanguard, they actually get less money from me if I hold stocks instead of cash.

Same Old Story
In any case, I grow weary. Bonds have outperformed Stocks both recently and other times in the past, even if people ignored it. This is why investors need to have a balance of both stocks and bonds/cash, not just 100% one or the other. If you needed the money soon, then you should have been at the most 60/40 in stocks/bonds, if not even more conservative. In that case, your portfolio would have dropped about 15% over the last couple of years up until today, and you’d be worried but not broke.

If you use the correct numbers (ahem), stocks still have higher historical returns over extended periods, with many rocky patches. We balance this knowledge with the also-historically steadier but lower returns of bonds and cash. That’s really about it. As for the future, nobody knows, as much as they’d like to suggest they do.

Create a Balanced & Simple Portfolio With Five ETFs

In a recent Money magazine article about ETF Investing, there is a nice illustration of a simple and diversified portfolio made entirely of ETFs by author/money manager Rick Ferri:

Put simply, ETFs are essentially mutual funds that trade like stocks. (Note the ticker symbols included above.) Hence the name Exchange Traded Funds! You tend to get lower annual expense ratios than mutual funds, but you must also pay a stock commission on each and every trade. They also tend be better in taxable accounts because they often don’t shed as many capital gains. Since there are now a million types of ETFs out there, it’s good to remind everyone about the great portfolio building blocks out there.

If you trade large amounts at a time or have cheap enough trades, then ETFs can be a good option. Otherwise, even $10 a trade can really add up. If you have $25,000 of total stock value, you can move your account to Zecco Trading for 10 free trades per month, or to WellsTrade (by Wells Fargo) for 100 free trades per year (special PMA checking account required).

Done this way, the total cost of this portfolio would be under $20 a year for every $10,000 invested. Less money in a broker’s or manager’s pocket means more for you.

* Update: Here are 8 more model portfolios that you can replicate with ETFs these days.

Finding an Investment Property with InvestorLoft and PropScout

CNN Money recently listed 5 new tools for homebuyers, one of which was InvestorLoft.com. At first glance, it looks like a Zillow for investment properties.

I decided to run a quick search using their PropScout tool for an investment property in California for under $300,000. I sorted by cashflow, as I that would be a primary requirement were I ever to get into a rental property. One of the top results was a little ski chalet in South Lake Tahoe for $269,000. With a estimated positive cashflow of over $50,000 per year, I was starting to think InvestorLoft was in serious “Beta”, but decided to keep looking further. Besides, I’ve spent a good deal of time up there, so I was intrigued. Could I swing a nice little ski cabin for myself?

Cashflow Breakdown: InvestorLoft vs. My Numbers

You have to register (free) to see details, but here is the property link. Click on the “View Financials” tab to see the breakdown.

Expenses
InvestorLoft’s default mortgage numbers have you putting 20% down, and financing the remaining 80% with an interest-only loan. I’d probably go with a 30-year fixed fully-amortized loan, and these days investment property have much higher interest rates. At 20% down and 7% interest, I got $1,400 for an estimated mortgage payment.

This chalet is really a townhouse, so it comes with HOA fees. Property management costs look to be estimated at 10% of gross rent, although as you’ll see below I don’t agree. No maintenance costs were estimated, but as a vacation rental with high turnover, I put in $200 per month. Here are the final numbers side-by-side:

Income
Here’s where that crazy cashflow number comes from: The expected monthly rent was $6,700 a month. (This is also why the property management cost above was $670 a month.) “Rental estimates based on 26 comparable rental listings with matching number of bedrooms and size in a 1.5 mile radius. ” Hmmm. First of all, there’s no way a month-to-month tenant would pay $6,700 a month for this wood shack. It has to be a vacation rental, and I can only guess that they are assuming 100% occupancy.

For some comparisons, I looked up similar properties at VRBO.com – Vacation Rentals by Owner. This chalet does not have the nicest interior, but the location is above average and is near the main highway.

Roughly, it would seem like I could charge $100 a night (taxes not included) for this chalet during May-November, along with a $75 cleaning fee per stay. It could go up to $150 a night during peak ski season (December-April). Occupancy rates would have to be a conservative 50% during the offseason and 75% during peak season. If I assume that I break even on the cleaning fees, that would work out to an average monthly rental income of $2280.

(I wasn’t quite sure how much a property manager would charge for managing a vacation property with people coming and going, especially if bookings were made online, so I estimated it around 20% of gross rent.)

Results
Too bad, it looks like I’m not going to get rich by buying this chalet. The InvestorLoft estimated monthly cashflow was a positive $4,094 a month, while my own rough numbers have me about $200 a month in the hole. I know I am being conservative in some areas, but I think that’s how you have to do it, especially for something optional like a vacation rental. The numbers actually aren’t horrible, though, it might warrant some more investigation…

InvestorLoft looks to be another one of those internet tools that you’re happy exists because you’ll play with it, but you can’t rely on them as there is still plenty of room for improvement.

Mortgage Rate Reset Timeline: Another Wave Coming

One of the things I like to read when I get the itch for some stock market opinion (which isn’t very often) is John Hussman’s weekly market commentary. Not that he’s always right, and I don’t own any of his mutual funds, but I like to hear his reasoning. In this week’s 6/8 post, he references a chart that shows us in a temporary lull of mortgage resets. The infamous subprime “wave” is past, but there is another big wave of option ARM and Alt-A resets ahead:

As I’ve noted before, recent months have represented a lull in the reset schedule, which was accompanied until recently by a moratorium on new foreclosures. Those foreclosures are now ramping up quickly, and a fresh surge in resets will add to the difficulties beginning later this year.

The chart originates from an IMF report entitled Assessing Risks to Global Financial Stability.

These upcoming resets may not be as bad as they are supposedly borrowers with slightly better credit profiles, assuming that enough people can refinance their mortgages to something they can afford. But it’s kind of hard to refinance when you’re upside on your house. Even I’m basically upside-down on my mortgage, and I had a 20% downpayment. Thank goodness I have a 30-year fixed, a steady job, and no desire to move!

I’m not changing my asset allocation by selling stocks or anything right now, but I’m also not getting too attached to these recent market gains. Plenty of uncertainty ahead!

Microplace Review: Investments, Application, Funding Methods, Bonus

I finally got around to looking closer at Microplace, a site owned by eBay that tries to alleviate global poverty by offering investments that enable loans to hardworking poor people. I wrote about them previously in Earn a 5% Return and Help Fight Poverty Too? but never ended up investing.

These microlending investments offered do carry risk to principal, although historical repayment rates have averaged 97%. I have just finished putting in $1,200 across three different loans of different maturities and interest rates. This a decent chunk of money, but again this is both an investment and a charitable gift. As you’ll see below, I have the potential to earn some interest and/or maintain liquidity. I like the idea of this money being repayed and then loaned out again later, ideally over and over again. My own little mini-foundation. 😉

My Investments
This is an experiment for me, so I wanted to try a variety of investments. I believe that if microlending can be both profitable and successful in reducing poverty, it will really take off. I went with some of the higher-yielding notes and also one with high liquidity. We’ll see how the repayment rates are.

Investment #1: Helping Poor Women in Nicaragua, Earns 4% interest per year, Principal repayment on 12/31/2010.

Investment #2: Help Nicaraguan farmers, Earns 5% interest per year, Principal repayment on 12/31/2011.

Investment #3: Called the Oikocredit Global Community Note, this investment enables loans to the working poor in several developing countries. 1.75% return per year, can redeem anytime. This last one is interesting because you can withdraw your principal at any time. I can already redeem only a day later:

Application and Funding Methods
The application process is very similar to signing up for a stock brokerage account. They will ask you identity information as well questions about your income and investment experience because they are selling securities that carry risk of loss. As for funding the loan, you can either use PayPal or a bank transfer:

Since eBay owns PayPal and Microplace, there are no fees for using PayPal. That means you can switch to a rewards credit card and earn some points or cash along with your investment. Why not? Just be sure to change your PayPal funding source. My credit card charge went through fine.

Got Bonus?
You know me and freebies. After signing up I received another e-mail about a Father’s Day promotion where you can even get a free solar-powered flashlight:

Invest as little as $20 in honor of Dad and MicroPlace will send a free solar-powered flashlight, to Dad. This eco-friendly flashlight will remind Dad how grateful you are for his caring and love. And your investment will help fathers and families work themselves out of poverty so their children can get an education.

Why I Don’t Use LendingMatch To Invest With Lending Club

Peer-to-peer lending site LendingClub has a feature called LendingMatch that allows you build a portfolio of multiple notes simply by choosing a desired risk profile. Even though I’ve funded over 30 loans, I never touch the thing. Now, I think in general LC does a decent job rating their loans from A1-A5, B1-B5, all the way to G5. But sometimes I just don’t agree with their assessments, and other times I have a more personal objection to the loan. Today, I found an example that fit both.

This loan passed through all of my usual manual filters. A/B grade only, 714+ credit score, debt-to-income ratio < 10%, and zero delinquencies within last two years. The assigned grade was A5, which is quite good overall.

But then I read the details. (If you’re a member, it’s loan #411092.) His reported gross income is $26,000 per year. He’s only been at his current job for only one year. He has been delinquent on accounts before, but last time was over 4 years ago. He has about $18,000 in credit card debt currently. He has 70% of his annual income as debt? To me, that’s like someone making $100k a year before taxes having $70,000 of consumer debt. Seems like quite a burden.

Already skeptical, I then read the loan description. Here it is, after I stripped out what I felt was not important:

This loan will be used to consolidate the remaining balance on two credit card balances and for home improvement. Looking to payoff some credit card debt and add a sunroom to my home. I am coming to the lending club community to help me build a nice sunroom to enjoy a cold glass of iced tea.

Honestly, I didn’t even know what a sunroom was until I looked it up. According to this site, a small 80 sq. ft. sunroom would cost from $5,000 to $15,000. He already has 70% of his gross annual income as debt, and he wants to add another $5,000 to it? That would result in a debt-to-annual income ratio of 90%.

I like the idea of helping people pay down their credit card debt by lowering their interest and consolidating into one payment. But this guy seems to really like being in debt. Now, that’s his choice, but I don’t like the idea of supporting it. Am I alone in thinking this way? I’m thinking I might not be, as his loan request didn’t fund the first time.

You can read about the other details of my LendingClub portfolio here. My annualized return after fees so far is 8.8%.

Monthly Financial Status / Net Worth Update (June 2009)

Net Worth Chart 2009

Credit Card Debt
In the past, I have taken money from credit cards at 0% APR and placed it into online savings accounts or similar safe investments that earn 4-5% interest or more, and keeping the difference as profit. I even put together a series of step-by-step posts on how to make money off of credit cards in this way. However, given the current lack of great no fee 0% APR balance transfer offers, I am have not been as active in this “game” recently. My credit score remains high enough that I haven’t seen any negative actions.

Retirement and Brokerage accounts
Markets went up, although as usual I don’t know why. I’ve been swearing off CNBC so I’m especially detached from all the buzz. Most of our retirement accounts rose about 10% the last month, which was over a $10,000 gain. I actually wish it stayed down so I could start investing some of my new cashflow at lower prices. However, waiting for it to drop again is not logical behavior, or so I keep reminding myself…

Cash Savings and Emergency Funds
We did still save a good deal of cash from our income this month, but I shifted about $10,000 of it into my brokerage account so that I can start investing in taxable accounts, which skewed the values above a bit. We still have a year’s worth of expenses in our emergency fund, which always gives me the warm fuzzies.

Home Equity
Using four different internet valuation tools – Zillow, Cyberhomes, Coldwell Banker, and Bank of America (old version) – I took the average and took off 5% to be conservative and 6% for real estate agent commissions. These sites are really wonky. Last month I was actually up, but this month my home’s estimated value dropped over $32,000 in a month. Shrug. I’m lucky that our work situation is doing well and we have no plans on moving.

According to my quick and dirty plan for financial freedom I should start paying extra towards my mortgage, but I’m having a hard time pulling the trigger on this one as well. I feel inflation coming. Should I just invest in stocks, and keep my 5% mortgage as long as possible?

2009 Callan Periodic Table of Investment Returns

Investment consultant firm Callan Associates created a neat visual representation of the relative performance of 8 major asset classes over the last 20 years. You can find the most recent one below (click to view PDF), which covers 1989 to 2008. Each year, the best performing asset class is listed at the top, and it sorts downward until you have the worst performing asset. You can find previous versions here.

Lessons Learned?
It is always interesting that us humans tend to try and find patterns in everything. Make your eyes shift out of focus for a bit, and most of the table looks pretty random. What is top could easily end up back at the bottom. Callan says that the table shows the value of diversification.

But I also see some streaks. Let’s look at the white boxes of MSCI EAFA, which is an index following major developed international (non-US) countries. From 1989-1992 it was in the the dumps, and then from 1993-1994 it was tops. Then there are the pink boxes of the S&P 500 Growth. From 1994-1999 it was either 1st or 2nd. For the next 7 years from 2000-2006, it was nearly last.

What do we learn then? Mostly, that there are no reliable patterns. If we simply bet against what was hot last year, we could get burned for 6 more years. If we just follow what is hot, we probably get crushed too. I bet I can guess where most investor money was flowing at the end of each of these streaks…

Also, while the table compares relative performance, you can also note that absolute performance changes all the time as well. In 2008 the “best” asset class only went up 5.25%, while in 1989 and 1995 the “worst” asset class went up over 10%. Sometimes you just can’t win, and other times you just can’t lose.

For the most part, it makes me laugh at all the predictions I hear. We’re almost halfway done with this year. Who wants to guess what the breakdown for 2009 will look like?

Warren Buffett’s Original Money Management Fee Structure

Here’s a another little fact from The Snowball that I found interesting. When Warren Buffett set up his first investing partnerships where he agreed to manage other people’s money, he wanted a compensation agreement that was fair and equitable.

I got half the upside above a four percent threshold, and I took a quarter of the downside myself. So if I broke even, I lost money. And my obligation to pay back losses was not limited to my capital. It was unlimited.

The last part meant he could lose more money than he put actually invested into the partnership. He would cover a quarter of all losses from his partners, even if it meant selling his house or other assets. Now that is what I call a true alignment of interests.

Sure, half of the upside past 4% is a lot, but can you imagine any modern hedge fund agreeing to such a fee structure that would expose them to losses? Nope, they get “2+20”, which means 2% of assets no matter what plus 20% of profits, which really encourages them to just swing for the fences. If they implode (which many did recently), they simply pack up and open a new fund down the street.

It’s hard enough these days to find a mutual fund manager where a substantial part of their net worth is invested in the fund they manage.

Personal Finance Ratios: Savings-to-Income, Debt-to-Income, and Savings Rate-to-Income

There was a recent post on how much savings one should have at age 30 over at the Bogleheads forum. Being 30 myself, I was intrigued, but I am in the camp that believes that there is no right answer at 30. You’re still so young that you could just be out of school for a few years, and at that time it’s mostly up to how much student loan debt you racked up. Most important might be your ability to live under your means, and that you’re learning a valuable skill of some sort.

However, there was mention of a paper the the FPA Journal called Personal Financial Ratios: An Elegant Road Map to Financial Health and Retirement, where the author presents a variety of ratios as a rough benchmark to help clients determine whether they are on track to retire by age 65. These include Savings-to-Income, Debt-to-Income, and Savings Rate-to-Income.

The actual numbers depend on how you believe your investments will perform annually after inflation. (5% on the left table, 4% on the right.) Definitions below.

Savings include the current value of one’s investments, such as a 401(k), IRAs, brokerage accounts, investment real estate, and the value of any private business interests. The home is excluded as an investment. Debt comprises all debt, including mortgage, student loans, car, and consumer debt. Savings rate refers to the percentage of pre-tax income an investor is saving each year out of their total income.

A Hypothetical Example
Let’s take a look at a hypothetical 45-year-old individual to see how he might use the ratios to assess his financial circumstances. This person has the following financial statistics:

Salary $110,000
Mortgage $125,000
Auto Loan $25,000
Investments $260,000
Annual Savings $10,000
Employer 401(k) Match $3,000

Based on these statistics, the hypothetical individual ratios are as follows:

Savings to Earnings: $260,000 / $110,000 = 2.36
Debt to Earnings: ($125,000 + $25,000) / $110,000 = 1.36
Savings Rate to Earnings: ($10,000 + $3,000) / $110,000 = 11.8 %

As for us, we’re doing okay according to the table for age 30 regarding the savings-to-income ratios (0.5) and savings rate-to-income ratios (50%+). Our debt-to-income ratio is a bit high though, at around 2. Of course, this is highly dependent on our income number, which might change if we downshift with kids. I guess that’s another reason to wait until we’re a bit older to really start benchmarking like this.

One thing I don’t like about the ratios is that home equity is never included, because the author says that it’s hard to extract home equity. Okay, I agree on that point, but there is no mention of compensating for renters in the analysis. If I have no debt at age 65 + a paid-off house, that’s a lot different than no debt at 65 + still paying rent forever. My largest expense by far is housing (greater than all other expenses combined), and having that taken care of changes my retirement outlook drastically.

So… should we be using these ratios as a benchmark?

Sharebuilder Raising ACAT Outgoing Transfer Fees

Since we’re on this topic, I was also notified that brokerage firm Sharebuilder is raising their outbound account transfer fees in mid-June. The fee to transfer an entire account out to another broker will rise to $75 from $50. The fee for a partial transfer will then become $15 per security, with a $75 maximum. They are also lowering margin rates.

So if you’ve been thinking about moving somewhere else, now might be a good time. If you have a small balance, it might be best to simply sell all your positions, transfer the cash out, and close the account. I’ve been thinking about doing this to simplify things. Don’t forget to keep your trade information for tax filing later.

LendingClub: My P2P Loan Portfolio Update (+Bonus)

I’ve been meaning to post some smaller updates about my ongoing experiences with person-to-person lending at LendingClub, but I decided to wait and roll them up into one larger post.

Current Portfolio
I now have a total of 32 active loans with $1,122.21 in outstanding principal. Most are A grade, with a few Bs. Here is a screenshot from my account page:

These are the loans that originated after LendingClub completed their SEC registration, which means I can sell these loans on the open market. I also have $91.91 in 4 notes that were pre-SEC registration (these are accounted for separately), all A grade.

Performance
All 32 loans are current, with no late or defaulted loans. I don’t think any have even gone temporarily late. According to LC, my “Net Annualized Return on Investment” based on my interest payments received so far is 8.80%. This is net of all fees. The oldest loans are about 16 months old now, almost halfway through the 3-year term. So far so good.

You can view the statistics for all LC loans here. This study states that as of the end of November 2008, lenders earned an average rate of 9.05%. If you are familiar with Prosper, you’ll note that this is significantly better than their stats. There are several reasons for this, in my opinion. For one, an A grade loan on LendingClub is a lot better quality than an A loan on Prosper. You need to have a 660 credit score as well as other additional requirements just to make their lowest G grade. Also, LC is much more stringent on approving loans. Only about 10% of loan applications are accepted. Their data verification system seems to be more comprehensive and weeds out a lot more questionable and/or fraudulent loans.

Loan Filters / Methodology
For the most part, I only lend to borrowers with a nearly perfect credit profile. I don’t use their PortfolioMatch tool, I handpick each of my loans. It doesn’t take very long; Here’s my basic search filter: A/B grade only, 714+ credit score, debt-to-income ratio < 10%, zero delinquencies, and 50% funding status. The high funding status usually means that the loan has already been approved, with LendingClub verifying enough application information. I check whenever I remember to, probably once every two weeks or so, and if I see something I like, I throw either $25 or $50 at it. My ideal borrower has a 10+ year clean credit history, a stable government job, and is just looking to consolidate debt into a lower rate. Paying 8% APR from LendingClub is a lot better than 10-20% from even the best prime credit cards, and new credit is harder to get now. I like the idea that they can clear out their consumer debt in 3 years or less. Open Market
You can now buy and sell loans, so there is no longer a fixed 3-year commitment. I’m happy with my returns so far, and have not yet tried to sell any of my loans on the open market. I do see that loans with a good payment history of 6 months or so are asking a 4-6% premium to outstanding principal, so it might be a feasible strategy to repeatedly find good loans and sell them after 6 months. You might be able to limit your exposure and still maintain a decent return. (Sellers pay a 1% transaction fee.)

Self-Directed IRA Option
In March, LendingClub announced that you can now hold their P2P loans in a Self-Directed IRA and get the tax benefits. The main downside to this is that you are subject to a $250 annual account maintenance fee. Unless you have a very large amount of IRA funds that you wish to commit to this, $250 is a big drag on performance (1% of $25,000, 5% of $5,000). However, you can also hold other things like real estate or physical gold bullion in this Self-Directed IRA, so it does offer additional flexibility.

Safety of Principal
With the new post-SEC setup, you are now technically buying notes from LendingClub. This brings up the question of what would happen if they went bankrupt. This was previously addressed in my Q&A with Rob Garcia, Director of Product Strategy. In addition to that, I saw on TechCrunch a couple months ago that LendingClub secured another $12 million in Series B venture funding.

$25 New Lender Bonus
If you are interested in lending, you can still use this special $25 lender sign-up link to get a free $25 to try it out with no future obligation. There is no credit check and you don’t even have to deposit anything. After you are approved, the $25 will show up in your account balance, and you can lend it out immediately.

If you’re looking to borrow at LendingClub, my advice remains the same. Send in your information, and see what interest rate they offer you. If you like it, try and get a loan. If your full amount is not funded, you can either accept partial funding or walk away with no obligation.