FISN Bank CDs Paying Over 8% Interest: Being FDIC-Insured Isn’t Enough

I’ve already written about Millennium Bank – the offshore bank offering 8% certificates of deposit that are not FDIC-Insured, let alone highly regulated. More recently, a group called the Federally Insured Savings Network (FISN) has been advertising FDIC-insured Certificates of Deposit Paying Over 8%”. What’s the deal?

It definitely looks too good to be true, but let’s look at the fine print and see what we can find. I’ll just focus on the highlighted CDs paying a 8% and 8.25% APR to save some time.

These Are Long-Term Investments With Very Limited Liquidity
The maximum terms for these CDs are for 15 or 20 years! If you wish to withdraw early, you can be sure it will be with a fat penalty. However, it may not even be possible to re-sell them at all. From the disclosure: “Lack of Liquidity. The CDs will not be listed on an organized securities exchange. JPMSI may offer to purchase the CDs upon terms and conditions acceptable to it, but is not required to do so.” This could be worse than even taking money out of your IRA or 401(k).

High Minimum Investments
In this case, you need $25,000 to invest with FISN as your broker to JPMorgan Chase Bank.

They Are Callable, And That’s Not Good
A callable CD means that the bank can say “I found a better deal elsewhere, so I no longer want to pay you this much interest anymore. Bye!” You’ll get your principal plus interest earned up to that point, but this usually happens when interest rates fall, leaving you stuck with alternative paying a lot less than you were getting before.

On the other hand, you the depositor have no such flexibility. You’re still stuck for as long as the bank wishes. Again – up to 20 years! Put another way: Heads, the bank wins; Tails, you lose.

Not A Fixed Rate CD – 8% Rate Isn’t Guaranteed
When talking about a bank CD, you’re usually referring to a fixed rate CD. However with this investment, you may or may not get paid any interest based on the following criteria:

Interest is paid quarterly for every day the 30Yr Constant Maturity Swap (CMS) Rate is greater than the 10Yr Constant Maturity Swap Rate (Positive Yield Curve). If the 10Yr CMS Rate is greater than the 30Yr CMS Rate on any day (Negative Yield Curve) no interest is accrued for that day. Full 8.00% rate guaranteed for first year.

Trying to figure out exactly what CMS rates were made my head hurt. But very generally, if the long-term interest rates are higher than short-term interest rates (positive yield curve) you’ll get paid your fraction of 8% annual interest that day. However, if the curve goes negative, which it has for extended periods in the last few years, you don’t get paid any interest that day. So 8% is basically a best-case scenario. Over a 15-year period, I highly doubt you’ll be getting the full 8% each year. Earning 0% is the worst-case scenario.

I’m Not Interested
So yes, technically these are FDIC-insured to the extent that your principal is safe. But your money could be stuck sitting around earning nothing while inflation eats away at the actual value. And the bank will only keep paying the interest if it remains profitable for them. These seem to be sophisticated investments being marketed at the unsophisticated public. Buyer beware!

$100 Bonus from Suze Orman and TD Ameritrade

While skimming my new Suze Orman eBook, I ran across her SaveYourself promotion that I blogged about almost a year ago, but is still going on for a little while longer.

You can get a $100 bonus after one year (expired) if you open an account at Ameritrade by March 31, 2008 and set up an automatic deposit of at least $50 per month for 12 consecutive months. This deal isn’t bad as a mandatory cash savings vehicle if you don’t need to withdraw the money. They even offer a special money market rate much higher than their usual piddly 0.05% rate:

Get started on Suze’s Save Yourself Plan by opening a new account with TD AMERITRADE, featuring a special high-yield deposit account with a 2.78% Annual Percentage Yield (as of February 1, 2008). Your cash is held in an FDIC-insured Money Market Deposit Account (MMDA) at TD Bank USA, N.A.

There are no maintenance fees on the account, plus you receive the $100 offer for making 12 monthly automatic deposits of at least $50 each to help you build up your account balance. […] Should you need to withdraw the money prior to the twelve-month commitment, you may withdraw all of your deposits, plus the interest earned. However, you will forfeit the $100 bonus.

Doing the math
Looked at one way, if you just put in the minimum $50 in each month, at the end of a year you will effectively have earned 35% interest on your money. If you are truly starting out on a savings plan, this is a pretty nice guaranteed return. $50 a month isn’t too painful, and at the end of the year you’ll end up with over $700 tucked away for your emergency fund, Roth IRA contribution, or whatever. It’s a good incentive to get in the habit of saving.

Alternatively, if you’re already saving all you want in high-yield savings accounts, you’ll still be ahead by about $90 in extra interest.

I wouldn’t necessarily stay and invest with TD Ameritrade, though. They are alright, but at $10 per trade with potentially small balances, here are a few alternatives that I suggest exploring. Note that TD Ameritrade has a $75 fee for transferring out your account directly to another broker. Keep your money in cash, and then simply withdraw it and close your account with no fee when you wish to leave.

Missing 1099 Form? Why They’re Late From Zecco, Fidelity, Vanguard, and More

It’s mid-February. Some of you early-birds may be wondering where some of your 1099s are by now. By law, they are usually required be sent out by January 31st. However, many brokerages have asked the IRS for a 30-day extension, and they have been granted rather willingly. This includes or has included everyone from small companies like Zecco to big names like Morgan Stanley, Vanguard, and Fidelity.

One big reason for the extension requests is that many mutual funds, ETFs, and closed-end funds have to rely on information provided by all the smaller companies in which they have owned shares. If a company catches an error later on, the correction has to be passed onto the fund company, compiled, and then finally submitted to the brokerage firm. According to this Kiplinger article, more than 13% of 1099s issued in 2006 had to be corrected.

Last year, Ameritrade sent me two revised 1099s. In 2006, I had to file a 1040X amended return because of a similar situation. Waiting a couple of weeks is worth it to me if it means they get it right the first time. Many firms only use a few days of the extension, while other play it more safely.

What’s The Best Broker To Start My Roth IRA?

I am often asked where is the best place to open one’s first IRA. Usually it’s a Roth IRA, since people tend to start out in lower tax brackets and Roth IRA save you taxes upon withdrawal.  But to be sure whether you want a Roth or Traditional IRA, check out a quick IRA comparison tool over at Mint.com.  You’ll be able figure out what kind of IRA you want, and then locate a broker to get it started.

Choosing a one’s broker is still a very personal decision so I don’t think there is one single best broker for everyone, but here are the ones I would recommend to my friends and family, so I would also recommend them to anyone. First, some assumptions:

  1. You want to invest in low-cost funds or ETFs. Not every believe in this style of investing, but I do. If you wish to trades stocks all day or chase 5-star Morningstar funds, then my suggestions might not be the best fit fo you.
  2. You want low commission costs and account fees. By this, I mean you want the basic services at a good price. I don’t pay attention to things like streaming quotes, advanced trading software, options contracts, or if the website has AJAX everywhere.
  3. You wish to be an independent investor. If you want to pay for guidance, I still recommend taking the time to learn some of the basics, but please find a good fee-only advisor. They’ll probably set you up with a institutional account in which they can trade for you.
  4. You are just starting out. So you have anywhere from just $50 a month to $5,000 to put into an IRA. You may be worried about minimum balance requirements, and aren’t eligible for most premium accounts.

Mutual Fund Brokerages
These firms mainly trade their own mutual funds, which somewhat restricts investment choice. To generalize, mutual funds are better suited for people who wish to dollar-cost average and like simplicity.

Vanguard

  • Commissions: Free to trade Vanguard mutual funds, although there may be certain redemption fees.
  • Account fees: No account fees with electronic statements. Otherwise they may apply.
  • Minimum to start: Most index funds have a minimum opening balance of $3,000. The STAR fund (VGSTX) lets you start with $1,000. More information here.
  • Vanguard is the place where I hold all of my Roth and Rollover IRA balances. They offer a wide variety of both active and passive products, but I use them exclusively for their index funds. I like their all-in-one retirement funds for new investors.

T. Rowe Price

  • Commissions: Free to trade TRP mutual funds, although there may be certain redemption fees.
  • Account fees: $10 fore each mutual fund with less than $5,000. Not sure if this is waived for AAB.
  • Minimum to start: Most funds have a minimum opening balance of $1,000 for IRAs. However, if you enroll in their Automatic Asset Builder (AAB) program and can commit $50 every month, the minimum requirement is waived and you can start with nothing. More information here.
  • T. Rowe Price has index funds, but their expense ratios about about 0.25% higher than at Vanguard. However, their active funds have relatively low-costs and lower turnover compared to other actively-managed funds. I like the combination of the $50/month plan and one of their all-in-one retirement funds for those with limited funds starting out, although I don’t have an account here.

In case you’re curious, I’m leaving out Fidelity because their index funds have $10,000 minimums, and their active funds are more expensive in general than T. Rowe Price. I also don’t like their all-in-one retirement funds very much, as they seem to contain a slew of mediocre funds.

ETF & Stock Brokerages
There are lots of great ETFs out there now, including several from Vanguard, and having a stock brokerage account gives you great flexibility to buy any of them. However, you will be faced with potential per-trade commissions, so here are a few that have low fees. I have accounts with all of these firms.

Zecco Trading

  • Commissions: Free for the 1st 10 trades per month if you have $2,500 in total account equity (cash + value of stocks). Otherwise, $4.50 per trade. Both limit and market.
  • Account fees: $30 annual IRA fee.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my Zecco account review.

TradeKing

  • Commissions: $4.95 per trade, limit or market.
  • Account fees: No annual IRA fee.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my TradeKing account review.

Sharebuilder (now owned by Capital One 360)

  • Commissions:$4 for each pre-scheduled “window” trade purchase. $9.95 for a real-time trade and to sell. Alternative higher-volume plans also available. In addition, if you open an IRA by 4/15/08 and use the promotion code ‘IRA2008’, you’ll get 7 free trades good until 12/31/08.
  • Account fees: $25 annual fee if you are in their basic plan. If you are on a plan with a monthly charge, or you have any account on such a plan, this fee is waived.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my Capital One 360 ShareBuilder review.

I hope that helps people with their research. You should also be aware of IRA termination and transfer-out fees if you wish to move, but these change all the time so by the time you want to leave they may be different. For more related posts on starting out in investing, please see my Rough Guide To Investing.

Free Experian Credit Score via Prosper Lending

Prosper person-to-person lending offers up another perk – a free credit score for prospective borrowers. If you’re a lender already, it’s not too difficult to become a borrower. I just had to verify my address and phone numbers, and they offered up my credit profile. You will need to provide your Social Security number, though.

After signing up and logging in, just click on “Get a Loan” and then “Get a Personal Loan”. Note that this isn’t your FICO score, but an Experian ScoreX PLUS score based on your Experian credit report. (Some people refer to these as Fake-O scores, or FAKO, as they compete with FICO scores.) Prosper makes it pretty clear that this credit profile will not affect your credit score:

Having Prosper obtain your credit grade won’t affect your credit score. Although we are making a request for your credit score, we’re doing so at your instruction so no inquiries viewable by subsequent users of your credit report will be placed in your credit file. That means your credit score won’t be affected when you register or post a listing.

In other words, it is a soft pull. However, if you do fund a loan, a hard pull will be performed. Here’s a partial screenshot of my profile:

altext

I’m not sure how the Experian score maps to FICO (they don’t officially), but it should give you a general idea of where you’re at. I’m glad to see I’m still at the highest AA grade even though I make money borrowing from credit cards, although admittedly I’ve been taking it easy recently. If you want access to your credit reports (not score), please check out the many ways to get a free credit report as well. Thanks to SlickDeals and reader Tim.

If you’re interested in lending on Prosper, grab your $25 bonus and a few tips from these posts:

Ask The Readers: What’s Going On With The Stock Market and the Economy?

I’m not very good at keeping up with market fluctuations in general, but Bernanke cutting the Fed Funds Rate by 0.75% got my attention. I’ll be honest – I was totally distracted this weekend by other things, and I barely noticed the drop in stock prices over the last week. The S&P 500 is down nearly 3% right now from Friday. The new headline for CNN is “Recession Watch 2008”. What did I miss?

Asset Allocation: Investing In Real Estate Through REITs?

When deciding on your portfolio’s asset allocation, another option beyond broad stock funds in domestic or international markets is to invest in is real estate. Besides directly owning a home or office complex, an easy way to get exposure is to own Real Estate Investment Trusts, or REITs.

What is an REIT?
From the National Association of REITs website:

A REIT is a company that owns, and in most cases, operates income-producing real estate such as apartments, shopping centers, offices, hotels and warehouses. Some REITs also engage in financing real estate. The shares of many REITs are freely traded, usually on a major stock exchange.

To qualify as a REIT, a company must distribute at least 90 percent of its taxable income to its shareholders annually. A company that qualifies as a REIT is permitted to deduct dividends paid to its shareholders from its corporate taxable income. As a result, most REITs remit at least 100 percent of their taxable income to their shareholders and therefore owe no corporate tax.

Since the REIT income essentially “passes through” directly to the shareholders, you are getting relatively direct exposure to commercial real estate. You’re not investing in a builder, or some other funky derivative. There are both domestic and international REITs, but lots of the following is based on US REITs.

Characteristics of REITs
Long-term historical data for REITs are not directly available, as there was not necessarily a consistent index to track them, or actual broad mutual funds investing in them. I’ve read various estimates from varying companies and academic studies via different books for returns (annualized).

To generalize, the performance of REITs is a little less than that of broad stock indexes, but higher than the return from bonds.

However, the main reason why many investment professionals and institutions all invest in REITs is that they have a historically low correlation with the overall stock markets, and also the bond market. This diversification benefit allows you to incorporate Modern Portfolio Theory and try to construct a portfolio with a better return/risk ratio than you had previously.
[Read more…]

Brokerage Promotions: $100 Bonuses at Tradeking and OptionsXpress

TradeKing is offering a $100 bonus (expired) for new households opening an account with at least $2,500, and making one trade. You must keep $1,000 in the account for the first 6 months. I could not find a related TradeKing promotional code for this offer, but it appears to be valid. Check out my TradeKing review for some of my experiences and account tips.

OptionsXpress is also offering a $100 bonus if you open an account and fund with at least $500 by 3/31/08. They will also cover any transfer fees up to $100 if you move your entire account (of at least $2,000 value) to them. They have some cheap options contract prices if you are a very active trader. For equity trades, their commissions start at $10 which isn’t too special. $100 might convince me to check them out, though. :)

Rollover IRAs: Good Idea In General, But What About A Small 401k?

If you leave your job and have a 401k or 403b left behind, the common advice is to roll it over into a Rollover IRA. There are several benefits to doing so, but here are the biggies:

  1. You maintain the tax-deferred status of the investment. For a traditional 401k, you would still be subject to ordinary income tax upon withdrawal, but along the way it would continue to grow tax-free. If you took the money as a lump sum, you would be subject to both taxes and penalties right away (with specific exceptions).
  2. Increased flexibility in investments. Most 401k plans have relatively limited investment choices, but you can open up an IRA at a variety of places. You can the invest in individual stocks, different mutual funds, bonds, ETFs, annuities, or even just a bank certificate of deposit.
  3. Save money by paying less fees. Along the same vein, many 401ks contain mutual funds with relatively high expense ratios compared to what is available on the open market. Many would recommend switching to low-cost index funds.
  4. You can consolidate accounts. You can combine the Rollover IRA with your other IRAs of the same time (Roth or Traditional Pre-Tax). One less thing to manage.
  5. Estate Planning perks.With an IRA, you have the ability to create a “Stretch IRA”, where your child can inherit and IRA and have the distributions “stretched out” across their longer life expectancy. This allows for more time to tax-free growth.

But many of these perks get overshadowed when you have a small 401k balance. My wife has an old 401k with only $2,000 in it at Fidelity. She gets to choose from a variety of Fidelity funds, including their Spartan index funds with 0.10% expense ratios, all with no minimum investment requirements. In addition, I don’t believe she is being charged any sort of administrative fees. We haven’t rolled it over to an IRA because:

  • Lonely IRA. We have no Traditional-type IRAs to merge it with at this time. We’d just be left with a $2,000 IRA.
  • Flexibility? If we moved it to Vanguard with the rest of our IRAs, we would not meet the $3,000 minimum for most of the funds. The only fund we could buy would be the Vanguard STAR fund.
  • No money to be saved? At most brokers, paying a commission for every trade on only $2,000 would really eat into the balance. We could move it to Zecco, which has free trades but also a $30 annual IRA fee. We can do better staying put, although if our existing investment choices were worse, finding a low-cost brokerage and switching to buying ETFs might be an option.
  • Itty-bitty estate. Again for small balances, this isn’t much of a factor in my opinion. No kids, anyhow :)

We could also move it to her new 403b, but it also has less-than-ideal investment choices. For now, it seems like the best move is really to stay put at Fidelity until there is a better opportunity. However, I would agree that our situation is a relatively rare case.

Interim Asset Allocation: Existing Accounts, Fund Choices, and Implementation

Okay, so I’ve decided upon an asset allocation plan. Now for my least favorite part – juggling and cramming all those asset classes into several different accounts. First, I’ll list my existing accounts, their estimated current balances, and my flexibility in investment options.

Account Type Est. Value Fund Choices
Roth IRA #1 $46,000 Vanguard funds w/ no transaction fee (NTF)
Roth IRA #2 $13,000 All Vanguard funds
Traditional 401k #1 $23,000 All Fidelity funds+ ETFs w/ $20 commission
Traditional 403b #2 $14,500 Limited low-cost fund choices (S&P 500 index fund, DODGX)
Traditional 401k #3 (old job) $2,000 Select Fidelity funds
Total Value $98,500

So I’ve got 7 asset classes to fit in 5 accounts. Below is a chart that shows the major asset classes sorted by tax efficiency:

Chart of Relative Tax Efficiency of Assets
(See my post on Tax Efficient Mutual Fund Placement For Maximum Return for sources and more information.)

Next, I combine my chosen 86% stocks/14% bonds with my asset allocation to find the breakdown below:

Asset Class Percentage of Total Portfolio Est. Value
Short-Term Treasury Bonds 7% $7,000
TIPS 7% $7,000
Real Estate 8.6% $8,500
US Small Value 8.6% $8,500
Emerging Markets 8.6% $8,500
International Large 25.8% $25,500
US Large 34.4% $34,000
Totals 100% $99,000

For example, with 40% of all stocks as US Large, I get 40% x 86% = 34.4% US Large over my entire portfolio. You might notice that I also sorted them in the tax-efficient order given above.

But in this case, I also need to consider the availability of low-cost index funds as well as placement, especially since all my money is already in tax-deferred accounts. My Roth IRAs are all with Vanguard with a wide variety of index choices, but my Traditional 401ks are limited to a few select index funds. After spending some time with a pencil, paper, and good eraser, here is the compromise I have worked out:

Roth IRA #1
$7,000 Vanguard Short-Term Treasury Fund (VFISX)
$3,000 Vanguard REIT Index Fund (VGSIX)
$8,500 Vanguard Small-Cap Value Index Fund (VISVX)
$8,500 Vanguard Emerging Markets Stock Index Fund (VEIEX)
$19,000 Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX)

Roth IRA #2
$7,000 Vanguard Inflation-Protected Securities Fund (VIPSX)
$6,000 Vanguard REIT Index Fund (VGSIX)

Traditional 401k #1
$23,000 Fidelity Spartan International Index Fund (FSIIX)

Traditional 403b #2
$14,500 Diversified [S&P 500 Index] Fund (DISFX)

Traditional 401k #3 (old job)
$1,000 Fidelity Spartan Total Market Index Fund (FSTMX)
$1,000 Fidelity Spartan International Index Fund (FSIIX)

On additional reason for this particular set up is to accommodate future growth. As the year progresses, I can continue to buy more shares of the largest asset classes (FSIIX and DISFX) in our 401ks. To retain the target asset allocation if things get out of whack, I can sell VTSMX in my Roth IRA and buy other funds as needed, with only a $3,000 minimum for most funds. I avoid any other low-balance fees at Vanguard by choosing electronic delivery of statements. In the future, I may switch my IRAs to an brokerage account to simply buy ETFs, but I don’t think that is necessary quite yet. I like the current simplicity and good service.

(By the way, I have such large Roth IRA balances because I did a Traditional-to-Roth conversion while our tax brackets were lower than they are now.)

Interim Asset Allocation: History, Decision, and Changes

Over the last year or so, I’ve learned a lot of new things about investing and asset allocation. At the same time, I know that changing your asset allocation too frequently is often a response to recent market activity (aka performance chasing, or market timing). In addition, I’m a highly analytical person and I love for things to have a correct answer to 5 significant figures before committing… which is pretty much impossible here. But at some point I know I just need to take action if I truly believe it is an improvement.

Previous Asset Allocation
In April 2006, I moved from the all-in-one Vanguard Target Retirement 2045 Fund (VTIVX) to a portfolio with more asset classes in an attempt to better optimize risk/reward factors based on historical data. You can see the asset allocation breakdown here. This asset allocation is pretty much what I have right now, except that I added a Micro-Cap stock fund and we moved money into a 401k with limited investment options.

Interim Asset Allocation

altext

I’m still continuing my series on building my portfolio, so I won’t explain all my actions here, but here are some quick summaries:

  1. Stocks/bonds allocation. I am shifting to a age-based formula for my stocks percentage. Using 115 minus my age, I am at 86% stocks and 14% bonds.
  2. Domestic/international allocation. I am increasing my international allocation to better match the world market. It’s essentially 50/50 if you think REITs are a separate asset class.
  3. Small/Value/Emerging Markets. These sub-classes are riskier than their overall market, but have been shown to have diversification benefits. Even if they don’t in the future, I am okay with them simply being more risky along with higher returns. Essentially, I am taking the total markets, and increasing the portion of one additional asset class which I think has the highest diversification benefits. For example, Small Value is a subset of Total US market, and Emerging Markets is a subset of the Total International market.
  4. Real Estate. I’m still holding REITs, as they are a way to invest in commercial real estate, and have also been shown to provide diversification benefits. Will give more references later.
  5. Micro-Cap, International Value, and Large Value. I think all of these potentially good asset classes to hold, but I think they are of lesser overall importance than the others. So in an effort to simplify, I am dropping them as separate funds. I still continue to have exposure the asset classes within other funds.
  6. New Bonds Allocation. I’ve been meaning to this for a while. I’ve been holding an intermediate-term corporate bond fund because it used to have a lower expense ratio after various fees. Inflation-protected bonds are still pretty new, but I’ve been convinced of their utility. I’ve also been convinced that bond ratings agencies just aren’t that good at their jobs, so I’m sticking with the highest quality bonds (Treasuries). The book Unconventional Success was a big influence here.

I call this my interim asset allocation because while I’m very confident this new setup fits my needs and preferences better than my previous asset allocation, I know that I will continue to learn and read. But just like with football coaches, this interim asset allocation might just become my permanent one.

In addition to all the books that I have read (and am still reading), I’d also like to say thanks to the many smart and helpful folks over at the Diehards.org forums for all the indirect and direct help. (I post anonymously at both forums.) Even though they sometimes feed my tendency towards complexity, I love the wealth of information that is available.

Rebuilding My Investment Portfolio: Index Of Posts So Far

I am a proponent and investor in low-cost, passive-managed mutual funds, but even within that philosophy there can be a dizzying array of choices. Although this has been taking a lot longer than I had hoped, but here is an updated compilation of posts about my thought process when re-building my portfolio.

Section 1: Simplified Theoretical Stuff

  1. Disclaimer and General Philosophy
  2. Consider Simply Buying The Entire Market
  3. Efficient Frontier and Modern Portfolio Theory

Section 2: Choosing An Asset Allocation

  1. Deciding On The Stocks/Bonds Ratio
  2. Deciding On The Domestic/International Ratio
  3. Considering The Diversification Benefits Of Small and Value Stocks
  4. Equity Asset Allocation: Comparison of 8 Model Portfolios