Morningstar Investor Returns: Another Reason Why Chasing Past Performance Is Bad

Traditionally, when you look at the historical return of mutual funds, you are getting what is called a time-weighted return. For example, the 5-year return is what you would have gotten if you bought the fund five years ago and held it continuously until today, all the while reinvesting dividends.

Last year, Morningstar rolled out what it terms the Morningstar Investor Return, otherwise known as a dollar-weighted return. This measures the returns that investors actually achieved in that fund, based on dollar inflows and outflows. It’s actually pretty interesting: If investors as a whole timed their purchases correctly and bought more shares when the fund was low, then their returns would actually be higher than the time-weighted returns. If, instead, investors waited until the fund performed well before buying in, and then sold their shares when the price was lagging, then their dollar-weighted returns would be lower than the time-weighted return. Guess which one happens almost all the time?

To find these numbers, go to Morningstar and type in any symbol in the quote box. Let’s take my very first mutual fund purchase, Janus Mercury (now Janus Research), symbol JAMRX. Then click on Total Returns, and then finally on the Investor Returns tab on the top. You should find this:

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Yikes. If you take the 10-year historical return, which includes both the big Tech bubble and crash, instead of the happy 10% annual return number most people see, the average investor actually lost 2% annually during this period. They tried to time it, and lost tons of money in the process. (I was one of them.)

Now, don’t think this performance chasing doesn’t apply to index funds. It does. Check out the Investor Returns for the classic Vanguard S&P 500 Index Fund, VFINX:

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Not quite as bad, but the average owner still lagged the fund’s performance by over 1% a year. What do we learn from seeing these Investor Returns?

Making a decision on which mutual fund to buy based on past performance is simply not a good idea. What happens when the performance starts to lag? Since you’re making decisions based on past performance, then you’re probably going to find another fund that’s been doing well recently, and then jump on that ship instead. It’s just a never-ending cycle of losing money.

This is why when I am looking at mutual funds to purchase, I completely ignore recent performance. I couldn’t tell you the recent returns of any of my fund holdings. The things I do look at are – the asset class and what index it follows, the expense ratio, and the tax efficiency. Maybe the fund minimums too, but that’s it.

(I also ignore the Morningstar Star rating system as I think it’s pretty useless as well, but that’s another post.)

2. Volatility matters. Buy-and-hold works… if you hold! You keep hearing that people shouldn’t own too much in stocks if they can’t tolerate the risk. You can see why by viewing the Investor Returns on the more volatile funds. They stink! According to this CBS MarketWatch article, the funds with the greatest relative volatilities had dollar weighted returns of just 62% of time-weighted returns.

When people see ups and downs on the Great Stock Market Ride, as a whole they are horrible at timing when to get on and when to get off. When (not if, when!) the market crashes again, people who aren’t prepared will panic and get off the ride. But when will they get back on? The result is lost money.

Here, the lesson is that even if you do plan on sticking with index funds, you must remind yourself during the rough patches that staying the course will be most profitable in the end.

Zecco Free Trades Broker Review, Part 1: Introduction and Opening Process Overview

I decided to open a brokerage account with Zecco.com. This is not going to be my main brokerage account just yet, but I do plan on using it. (I’m going to revive my Play Money account, for those that have been reading for a while. More on this later.) For now, since I think a lot of people are curious about this account, here are my experiences with the account itself.

Introduction: Why open a Zecco account?
Two words: Free Trades. As of 10/1, they offer 10 free market/limit trades per month, if you have $2,500 in total account equity (stocks + cash). There is no minimum balance to open, but if you have under $2,500 trades will cost $4.50. Finally, with no inactivity fees it seems like a great account even for someone who doesn’t trade frequently. Some other brokers offer free trades, but none with such a low balance requirement. There is a $30 annual fee for IRAs.

Why wouldn’t you open a Zecco account?
This is also simple – free trades aren’t everything. Zecco has been around almost a year now, and I don’t see Chuck Schwab declaring bankruptcy. Trust and customer service are big. Can Zecco execute the trades in a timely manner, and can the online interface and customer support match the other brokerages? (Or at least come close enough.) Hopefully, this review will help answer some of these questions.

Also, can they make enough money off of ads and margin interest to stay in business? If not, you’ll be faced with a $50 transfer-out fee and possible commissions elsewhere if you need to sell.

Opening Process Overview

1. Sign up for your MyZecco account. It is important to note that there are two parts to the Zecco website. First is the myZecco layer, which a more informal area that allows you to post on blogs and forums without an actual trading account. They will actually e-mail you this username and password, which I think is fine because no financial information is included in this layer. You don’t even need to enter your name or address.

2. Apply for a trading account. This seemed like a pretty standard brokerage application. One thing to note is that you may want to apply for a margin account, even if you don’t plan on trading on margin (borrowed money). Here’s why:

In a cash account the proceeds of a sell order will not affect your buying power until settlement, which is T+3 (trade date plus three business days). To avoid this situation you may want to consider establishing margin on your account. With a margin account the proceeds of a sell order will update your buying power immediately. To establish a margin account you can request it at the time you open your account or if your account is already established you can complete the Combined Customer Agreement Form…

3. Wait for application approval. You’ll get an e-mail saying that your application is approved, mine arrived the next morning. You will get information on how to set your Trading Key. This separate password gives you access to the second part of the Zecco website, the Trading area. This layer is a secure encrypted area and does contain sensitive information. I wouldn’t make your Trading Key the same as your myZecco password!

4. Send in your new account paperwork and copy of government ID. You should mail this in as soon as possible, as without it they will assume that you are subject to backup withholding. (Update: Now, it appears they have implemented system that allows most people to get their paperwork processed electronically.)

Still, you need to make sure it is processed before you can start trading. To check, log into your trading account at myInfo tab > Customer Info > Outstanding Paperwork. You want it to say “No” as shown below:

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5. Fund your account. If you want to fund online (which is what I did), you need to first link up your bank account first if that’s how you will be making your deposit. The popular 2-small-deposit verification system is used, and takes a couple of days to show up. Other ways to fund include via check or bank wire.

6. Request money market sweep. By default, free cash in your account only earns 1% APR. But you have the option of setting up a money market sweep account by sending in this form. There are three options by Scudder Investments, and I think the symbol for the taxable money market is CSAXX, currently with a 4.38% yield. Why they don’t make this higher yield the default in the first place is beyond me. 😕 The Treasury Money Market option might be a good bet for those with state income tax rates.

7. Next Steps. After you fund and your paperwork is processed, you should be ready to trade. I’m currently waiting on my opening deposit to arrive, and will report back once I’ve done more with the website and maybe made a few trades. Here are some things I’ve noticed so far:

– The administrative back end of Zecco is clearly provided by Penson Financial Services, as it looks identical to the back end of MB Trading, another broker that I have used which is popular amongst active traders. This actually provides me with some familiarity, although the contrast between the “Web 2.0-style” Zecco website and the bare-bones Penson interface is very stark and makes the site overall feel a bit unpolished.

– Zecco does not receive payment for order flow. All orders are routed and executed by Penson Financial Services. Hopefully this will lead to good fills.

– Zecco is insured by the SIPC, like most other brokers.

– You can set up dividend reinvestment if you wish, although you can’t buy partial shares:

Dividend reinvestment is a feature that is available to our clients and can be setup during the account opening process. If you would like to add this feature after the account opening process is complete, you must submit the request in writing to our customer service department.

For the rest of my experiences, see the second part of my Zecco Review.

Navigation
Zecco Review, Part 1
Zecco Review, Part 2

Parallels Between Gambling And Investing

I’m writing this while at the airport on the way to Las Vegas, so please bear with me. The analogies might be a bit of a stretch, but here are some ways I think gambling is a lot like investing… Debate as you like.

Costs matter. If you believe that the stock markets are very efficient, like I do, then the market is already priced with all the information publicly available. Any market moves are in response to fresh news like unexpected earnings report results, which are unpredictable unless you have insider information. Thus, the best you can do is try to match the market. Any costs like expense ratios, fees paid to financial advisors, extra taxes from turnover, or commissions, simply cut into your returns.

Take the house edge in gambling games. Obviously, the best way to keep your money is to simply not gamble. (Or maybe play the nickel slots slowly, tip well, and end up getting drinks for $1 each…) If you do gamble, then you have the chance to win money, but also a chance to lose money in the short run. But over the long run, your chances of winning get very very slim due to that house edge. All you have to do is look around Vegas to see this.

The house edge is like your investment costs. With investing, you try to pick your own stocks or go with actively managed funds which try to beat the market, usually with a significantly higher cost. Over the short run, they might beat the market handily. But over the long run, the odds of your fund beating a similarly allocated lower-cost index fund are very very small. (Not impossible by any means, but small.)

Most people don’t really understand costs. What’s the most profitable game per square foot in Vegas? Slots. What’s the most common game in Vegas? Slots. You see a bank of slots under a sign that says “up to 99% payout!” You know what that means? One of those machines is set to a 99% payout, and the rest are at 80%.

Why does everyone play slots? Lots of reasons, but one big reason is that they are really simple. You don’t need to learn any rules. You mash a button repeatedly. That’s it. But the odds are the worst by far. In fact, you don’t even know the odds. I hate playing the slots (again, except as a tool for getting cheap beers).

Personally, this makes me worry a lot about the self-directed nature of many people’s 401k/403b/TSP plans. Do they really know that they are investing in? The 401k industry seems to rely on the fact that most people just go with the default choice given to them. Few people question their investment choices. I don’t have the article on me right now, but something like 80% of 401(k) holders have no idea what expenses they are being charged on their retirement accounts.

People see patterns where there are none. One brilliant invention of casinos is adding the marquee display to roulette that displays the last 10 numbers hit. If a person sees 6 reds come up in a row, they might think “Oh, it’s due for a black” or “Red’s on a streak”. In fact, it remains an equal chance for red or black. One of my hobbies is listening to people’s wacky betting systems at tables. If there were any such patterns, you can bet people would exploit it greatly for profit.

Of course, Vegas is just entertainment. But losing 1% or more of potential return every year by paying excess costs is huge. Now that I have spouted all this analytical reasoning, wish me luck in Vegas! 😉

Vanguard Offers More ETF Equivalents To Their Index Mutual Funds

With Vanguard recently launching their new bond ETFs, I can almost reconstruct my entire portfolio of Vanguard mutual funds using their equivalent ETFs instead. While they won’t work well for everyone, I am glad that Vanguard is offering this option to the public. Here are some index mutual funds and their ETF counterparts:

Vanguard ETF and Mutual Fund Pairs

The ETFs certainly have an advantage in expense ratio if you don’t have the $50,000 needed to buy the Admiral shares of each fund. On average, the savings is 10 basis points, or 0.10%. That’s $10 a year on a $10,000 account, or $100 a year on a $100,000 account. In addition, the ETFs allow you to get around the minimum initial investments, as well as avoid the $10 per-fund low-balance fees, $10 per-fund IRA fees, and the purchase/redemption fees of many of their mutual funds.

In the disadvantage department are possible premium/discounts to NAV, the bid/ask spread, and commission costs. Vanguard even offers a cost-comparison calculator that takes many of these things into account.

The only ETF missing for me is their International Value fund, but I could replace that with the WisdomTree International SmallCap Dividend Fund (DLS).

Free Trades + ETFs = Cost-Saving Opportunity?
Right now, Zecco.com offers free trades with an account value of $2,500, while Wells Fargo offers free trades with an account value of $25,000. (Bank of America’s offering stinks, so I’m ignoring it.) Buying these ETFs with free trades would take away much of the traditional advantage of mutual funds.

Before I would switch to ETFs, my concerns include whether these brokers can sustain giving out free trades, and how good the customer service is. If they fail, would I keep paying slightly higher commissions on ETFs, or sell them all and go back to mutual funds? Something to ponder.

(You know what? I just figured out that Zecco stood for Zero Cost Commissions. No, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed.)

Better Alternatives To Dividend Reinvestment Plans (DRIPs)

Dividend Reinvestment Plans, or DRIPs, are programs that allow individuals to buy stock directly from the company, with dividends from the stock being automatically reinvested into more shares. Here are some popular companies that have DRIPs and also see the Wikipedia entry on DRIPS here.

DRIPs often charge no commissions, so if you set up a DRIP for General Electric (GE) and committed $50 per month, every penny of that would go towards buying $50 of GE, even if it meant buying a partial share. Dividends also get reinvested for free. The main startup costs involve buying one share through a broker and then transferring ownership to your name. This all made them a good alternative to using a broker and paying for every trade.

Do it yourself? Start with less than $100? No commissions? Sounds like something I’d go for. In fact, I don’t participate in any DRIPs. The main reason is that I’m really not interested in buying any individual company stock right now. DRIPS are meant as a very long term commitment, and I just don’t trust any one company to perform well for the next 30 years. On top of that, the accounting required to keep track of the cost-basis for all your shares sounds like a nightmare. Besides, I think there are better alternatives out there:

With just $50 a month, these days you can go through a company like T. Rowe Price or TIAA-CREF and invest in a low cost mutual fund that is diversified across hundreds of companies. It’s so easy a caveman could do it. 😉

If you have at least a few thousand dollars, there are now brokers that offer free trades like Zecco and Wells Fargo. I bet there will be even more to come in the future.

April 2007 Investment Portfolio Snapshot

It’s time for another bi-monthly update on my investment portfolio.

4/07 Portfolio Breakdown
 
Retirement Portfolio
Fund $ %
FSTMX – Fidelity Total Stock Market Index Fund $12,599 17%
VIVAX – Vanguard [Large-Cap] Value Index $14,082 18%
VISVX – V. Small-Cap Value Index $14,146 18%
VGSIX – V. REIT Index $9,229 12%
VTRIX – V. International Value $8,294 11%
VEIEX – V. Emerging Markets Stock Index $8,040 11%
VFICX – V. Int-Term Investment-Grade Bond $7,726 10%
BRSIX – Bridgeway Ultra-Small Market $2,086 3%
Cash none
Total $76,202
 
Fund Transactions Since Last Update
Bought $1,500 of FSTMX on 4/5/07 (36.773 shares)

Thoughts
Not much going on, I have been contributing a $500 a month to my Solo 401k while trying to build up my cash hoard for a house downpayment. I still plan on tweaking my asset allocation, but I’ve just been distracted by other things and kind of want to wait a full year before making any changes.

All of our Vanguard funds are held at Vanguard.com, where there are no commissions for trading their mutual funds. Currently, everything there is in Roth IRAs, one each for my wife and I. Even though Roth IRAs rock, we haven’t contributed to one this year yet because we might be over the income limits for 2007.

The Fidelity fund is also held in-house at Fidelity, where I have my Self-Employed 401k. Funds are also no transaction fee (NTF) there. It’s a bit annoying that both their Spartan Total US and International funds have high $10,000 minimums, but the 0.10% expense ratio is nice. I could also trade ETFs, but at $20 a trade it’s a bit expensive.

You can see some older posts on how this portfolio came to be here, as well as my previous portfolio snapshots here.

Six Key Principles of Saving for Retirement

Ben Stein has an good read on Yahoo Finance about what he terms the Six Key Principles of Saving for Retirement. Although I agree with all six main ideas, I question some of the specific numbers. Here are some excerpts and my comments:

1. How much you save.
Simply put, if you’re a typical American (who happens to save close to zero right now), you have to save more. When you’re young, 10 percent of your income will get you there. If you don’t start saving until middle age, aim closer to 15 or 20 percent. If you don’t start until later than middle age, save every penny you can.

Interesting. Is 10% really enough? If so, maybe I really am saving too much for retirement. 🙂 To what degree of certainty is that true?

2. How long you give your savings to compound.
A thousand dollars socked away when you’re 20 and growing at 10 percent per year will be almost $73,000 when you’re 65. The same sum saved when you’re 50 will grow to $4,200 at age 65. That’s a stunning truth that should compel any young person to start saving early — and the rest of us to start right now.

As for timing your retirement, Ray advises that if you can push it back by even five years you’ll allow your money to grow and have fewer years to need it.

Compound interest is truly powerful. A dollar saved now is worth more than a dollar saved later.

Although it hasn’t been helping me control my spending as much as I’d like either, I did make the horribly unpopular true cost of frivolous shopping calculator. 😉

3. How you allocate your assets.
Typically, for those who start early, stocks are the answer. Over long periods, a diversified basket of common stocks wildly outperforms bonds, cash, and real estate. The differences are breathtaking.

But, as we’ve seen lately, there’s also a lot of volatility in stocks. As you age, you’ll want more of your money in bonds and money market accounts. These have lower returns than stocks, but they also have far lower volatility.

Phil DeMuth recommends that, as a basic portfolio, you have half of your savings in the broadest possible common stock index such as the Vanguard Total Stock Market Index (VTSMX) and half in the Vanguard Total Bond Market Index (VBMFX)… To me, that’s a bit conservative if you’re young. I would have more in stocks and also a good chunk in international markets.

Here is a compilation of various model asset allocations from other respected sources. Pretty pie charts included!

4. How much your investment returns annually.

Now, this is largely unknown from year to year. But over long periods, stocks return close to 6.5 percent after inflation, and about 10 percent before inflation.

Can we expect 6.5% real returns in the future? Lots of conflicting opinions out there on this, but I really want to look into this more.

5. How low you keep your fees and costs.

This principle is largely about using index funds and no-load mutual funds, which makes perfect sense.

Costs matter, whether you go actively or passively managed. I’ve seen some really expensive index funds. Always look up the expense ratios and any commissions you have to pay either when you buy or when you sell for all the investments you own.

6. How closely you keep an eye on taxes.
Finally, Ray advises maxing out your tax-protected accounts like IRAs and 401(k)s; keeping high-dividend stocks in accounts that are tax-deferred; and, when retiring, carefully considering what bracket you’ll be in and drawing out your funds to remain in the lowest possible one.

Ah, taxes. Here is a discussion on where you should place investments for maximum tax-efficiency.

J.D. of Get Rich Slowly also shared his thoughts on these six points, and believes the most important factor in retirement savings is psychological.

About Traditional and Roth IRAs, And Why They Rock

If you are waiting until the last second to fund your 2006 IRA, you’re probably not alone. Maybe you are still confused about choosing between a Roth or a Traditional IRA. Here’s an interesting fact: If you assume that your tax rates will be the same now as they are in retirement, the amount you end up with is the same whether you use a Traditional or Roth IRA. This is independent of time length and expected return

Let’s assume an annual investment rate of return of 8% for the next 30 years, and a marginal tax rate of 25% for all years. Let’s also say that you only have $1,500 of after-tax ($2,000 gross pre-tax) income to put away right now.

If you went with the Roth IRA, you pay your 25% tax on the $2,000 now ($500), but no taxes upon withdrawal:

$2000 x 0.75 x 1.0830 = $15,094

If you went with the Traditional IRA, you don’t have to pay tax on the $2,000 right now, but you’ll be taxed upon withdrawal:

$2,000 x 1.0830 x 0.75 = $15,094

See how they are the same? The only difference is that you are able to put away “more” in a Roth IRA since the limits are $4,000 for either one. $4,000 post-tax in a Roth IRA is like putting away $5,333 in a Traditional IRA in this scenario. This ability to shield more money from taxes is why I chose to contribute to a Roth IRA. Now, if you change your assumptions about tax rates, that’s where you may start leaning more towards one or the other.

How good is the tax benefit?
Remember, either IRA saves you tax at least once. If you just kept it all in a regular taxable account, you would be subject to a tax on any dividends or realized capitals gains every year. Let’s see what happens to your $1,500 then. Taking the best case scenario of investing in stocks with only dividends being taxed and having no capital gains to deal with until you sell 30 years later, we’ll assume that the 8% annual return is broken down into 6% appreciation and 2% dividends. If the 2% in dividends are taxed at 15% each year, your after-tax return in 1.7%. If those dividends are reinvested:

$1,500 x (1.077)30 = $13,885

At the end of 30 years, upon selling you’ll have a long-term capital gain of $13,885 – $1500 = $12,385. You pay tax of 15% on that: $1,858, leaving you with $13,885 – $1858, or $12,027.

With these simplified assumptions, using an IRA made you over 25% more money than if you didn’t use one. If you invested in any bonds, the difference would be even greater. 25% is huge! Imagine ending up with $500,000…. or $625,000. Which one would you rather have? This is why IRAs are a great opportunity to make your money go farther.

See here for some specific mutual fund ideas, part of my overall investing recommendations.

(This is not a comprehensive Roth vs. Traditional IRA post – There are just so many variables like the ability to take out principal without penalty, ability to use balances for a 1st home, required minimum distributions, and easy of inheritance to consider.)

Cost Comparison Tool For Comparing Vanguard ETFs and Mutual Funds

While on Vanguard’s website I recently ran across a new and useful tool that help helps you calculate and compare costs for similar Vanguard ETFs and mutual funds. The tool takes into account trade commissions, the difference in expense ratio, redemptions fees, future purchases, and even the expected bid-ask spread.

For the unfamiliar, I’ll be very simplistic and say that exchange-traded funds, or ETFs, are mutual funds that can be traded like individual company stocks. Due to the way they are constructed, ETFs tend to have lower expense ratios than their mutual fund counterparts, but you will need to pay a commissions each time you trade. There is also a little bit of added loss due to the bid-ask spread.

For example, you could compare the Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX) with the Vanguard Total Market ETF (VTI). Both invest in the exact same set of companies, and holds over 1,000 companies that track closely the entire U.S. market. VTSMX charges an annual expense ratio of 0.19%, or $19 on a $10,000 investment. VTI has an expense ratio of only 0.07%, a mere $7 for each $10,000 invested.

I tried an example where I start with $10,000 of either VTSMX or VTI, and say that I will add another $1,200 each quarter for another 10 years. I assumed $5 trade commission and a 8% annual return. Here are the results:

Cost Results

(fixed the numbers :P) The cost edge goes to the ETF in this case, with a cost difference of $300. Really, I don’t see that as all that much over 10 years. But, as you get into larger amounts, the gap widens. If you continued the same example for another 20 years, the ETF’s cost advantage would be $7,000.

For this reason, I feel like it is only a matter of time before I start moving all of my current all-mutual fund portfolio into ETFs. In fact, the majority of my funds already have an identical ETF counterpart.

Anyhow, you can play with this calculator and change the variables to see your situation. Note that Admiral shares are an option once you reach $100,000 per fund. I’ve got a while before that…

But in terms of the big picture, both of these funds have very low costs and would serve as a great cornerstone to a retirement portfolio. If you are just starting out, I think you’ll see the difference is very small; I really wouldn’t stress too much about going either way.

How Good People Make Bad Investments

Here’s another article by Jonathan Clements that I enjoyed – How Good People Make Bad Investments from the Wall Street Journal. It points that some traits that help us success in other parts of our lives actually hurt our investing performance.

For example, you would like to think the more energy you put into researching and trading stocks, the better your returns would be. But the research and historical data simply doesn’t support that. Here are some excerpts:

Athletes who train hard are more likely to win. Students who study conscientiously are more likely to get good grades. What about investors who diligently research their stocks? They’ll probably earn mediocre returns.

The fact is, the markets are full of savvy investors, all hunting for cheap stocks. Result: If there are any bargains to be had, they don’t stay that way for long. Indeed, much of the time, share prices are a pretty good reflection of currently available information.

“If you put in more effort, you’ll end up with worse results,” reckons Terry Burnham, co-author of “Mean Genes” and director of economics at Boston’s Acadian Asset Management. “It’s not the work. It’s the action that comes out of the work that’s the problem.”

Every time we buy a supposedly bargain-priced stock, we incur commissions and other trading costs. In addition, if we trade in our taxable account, we may trigger big tax bills, further denting our returns.

[…]

Your index funds will simply replicate the performance of the underlying markets, minus a small sum for fund expenses. Sound dull? You may be more excited when you look at your results — and you realize they’re so much better than those earned by optimistic, hard-working active investors.

A Warm Slice Of Humble Pie

slice of pie, image credit: http://www.mcpies.comI’ve been trying recently to try and make some minor adjustments to the target asset allocations of my portfolio. I want to create something that I won’t be tempted to change again for many years. While attempting this, I keep noticing how hard it is for a beginning investor to try and figure out where to put their hard-earned money. So many websites, books, magazines, television shows… and the amount of information being thrown at you just seems to multiply daily. Everybody has an opinion, including me. Am I right?

Who knows? I don’t. I’m simply doing the best anyone can do – read a steady stream of books, academic studies, participate in discussions, and then making a decision based on that information. I try look at the bigger picture and draw conclusions based on historical studies going back from the 1920s and not five-year historical returns. But none of us can predict the future.

What is accepted as common knowledge often changes with time. My own views shift as I read more. I also see a lot information out there that I disagree with. Therefore, I encourage everyone to do their own due diligence, keep their minds open, question things, and try to separate the wheat from the chaff for themselves. All I can do is to promise that I will try to keep doing the same.

(This will be added to my compilation of posts about managing money called My Rough Guide To Investing.)

Cramer Admits To Manipulating Markets, Calls SEC Stupid

In an interview on the website TheStreet.com, Jim Cramer of Mad Money fame talks about how he and other hedge fund managers can manipulate stock prices for easy profit. Check out the video, it’s very enlightening:

Although this actually aired online a few months ago, he’s now getting heat from various media sources that recently discovered it – including articles from USA Today and the New York Times, which provide a nice recap:

Cramer described how he would make bets that gave the impression knowledgeable investors were predicting a stock’s future. Cramer said everything he did was legal but added that illegal activity is common in the hedge fund industry, where regulation is lax.

Cramer said some hedge fund managers spread false rumors about a company to large trading desks and the media to drive a stock price lower. He said this practice is illegal, but easy to do “because the SEC doesn’t understand it.”

He also said Research In Motion and Apple are easy targets.

Mr. Cramer said he had used some of the tactics himself, including lying to ?bozo? reporters to get them to report misinformation on particular stocks. He singled out CNBC?s Bob Pisani. He separated legal activities from illegal ones (such as ?fomenting?), and never quite says he ever took part in the latter.

Let’s take a step back here. Cramer openly admits that he and others can manipulate the markets by spreading misinformation. And people actually watch his show for investing tips?!? Somebody’s getting rich, but it ain’t his viewers… Yet another reason not to trade stocks in the short term.